Local Flavors

Sake
When someone talks about Japanese wine, it is likely he's referring to sake -- which is technically not a wine at all. Although there is such a thing as Japanese wine, production is limited and geared more for domestic consumption. In fact, no Japanese wine figured in a search of more than 80,000 labels in Wine Spectator's database.

Sake, on the other hand, is a national treasure that's fermented from rice, but it isn't distilled like gin or carbonated like beer. On average, the brewing process takes about a month, plus another six months of aging. Sake is meant to be consumed immediately, or at least within the year it was bottled. Like wine, it should be stored properly, preferably in a refrigerator. Sake or nohonshu is served in ceramic flask and poured into very small cups. It goes well with seafood. It has a higher alcohol content than most wines at 15-17%.

There are different qualities of sake, and the thing to look for is balance. Some sakes are dry, some sweeter, but it should never be dull or syrupy. In terms of color, most are transparent, but the more premium ones would have a golden tinge, indicating fullness. Anything darker than that should be avoided. When in doubt, just look for the words ginjo-shu or daiginjo-shu on the label. As far as brands are concerned, Juyondai is probably the most popular, but Suminoe, Isojiman or Shikizakura are also common.

Finally, there are no set rules as to serving temperature. However, a rule of thumb is that lower quality sake is served warm, or even hot, while the really good ones are best served slightly cold or chilled.

Eating Local
A majority of dishes in Japan consists of rice and seafood, making these two of the most important ingredients in Japanese food. Rice has been used in Japanese cuisine for more than 2,000 years and is a main ingredient in cakes and crackers as well as sake and a rice wine. Seafood is used in sashimi (raw fish), sushi (raw fish wrapped in rice) and tempura (coated in batter then deep fried).

There is a wide range of noodles, with some of the most popular being soba, udon, ramen and somen. Food presentation is an important aspect of the preparation and eating. Ingredients are chosen for their texture, color and ability to bring harmony to the taste; food arrangement is a presentation of colors and shapes.

Hard economic times haven't hurt the restaurant industry, and Tokyo-ites continue to dine out with a passion. From kai-ten (conveyor-belt) sushi bars and train station noodle counters to raucous family-run pubs and smoky back alley yaki-tori joints, street cuisine reigns supreme for its fast service, low cost and off-the-cuff appeal.

The izakaya is the mainstay of the Tokyo salaryman, and these cramped and smoky drinking spots are certainly worthy of a once-off visit to experience a slice of daily Japanese life. Some of Tokyo's longest-running izakaya and nomiya (counter bars) can be found under the tracks at Yurakucho, along Shinjuku's Shomben Yokocho and Golden Gai. English-speaking staff might be lacking but just pointing to dishes displayed with be enough to state your order. If not dining, this precinct makes for a lively evening stroll around 6 p.m., just as the weary office workers are tucking into their yaki-tori grilled chicken wings and beer.

For a light snack at any hour of the day, konbini (convenience stores) are a good stand-by. They sell a wide variety of Western and Japanese-style instant meals, as well as toiletries, newspapers, basic medicines and even underpants. Popular chains like Seven-Eleven, Family Mart, AM/PM and Lawson are located everywhere in the city.

Cafes and Teahouses
Chain cafe companies, including Cafe Veloce, Doutor and Mr. Donut, can be found almost everywhere in Tokyo. While caffeine addicts might pine for something stronger, a worthy "blend" coffee (medium strength) and tea are available from 180 yen, along with a variety of snacks. They're open for breakfast, too. Other chain coffee shops Giraffe and Pronto become bars in the evening, serving reasonably-priced alcoholic drinks and snacks.

There are teahouses everywhere in Tokyo, though many are local and not easy to locate. Mariage Frères on the 2nd floor of In the Room department store at 1-12-13 Jinnan, Shibuya, serves around four hundred varieties of tea in non-smoking surrounds. And though it's not cheap, it is easy to find - just a seven-minute walk towards Harajuku from the Shibuya station.

Near Harajuku, behind Takeshita-dori and only a minute's walk from Harajuku station, Suzuki is a traditional Japanese tea shop that provides tatami rooms, fusuma screens and manicured gardens for its serious tea drinkers. A frothy matcha (powdered green tea) and one choice from a wide assortment of Japanese sweets costs 1000 yen.